“So you’re exercising your boat then?” a fellow boater concluded.This remark followed a summary of the Crick-Welford trip to test out boat and crew; now the crew were facing Grand Union broad beam locks. It was at Braunston Top Lock, the first broad beam lock of the year. Cleddau by this time had added 8 miles and 7 more narrow locks to her 2024 total, whereas  the Top Lock boater’s total for this year was less than a mile from Braunston Marina and the ascent of 6 locks. “We’re off to London, King’s Cross,” she continued, “and then up the Thames…”Hers was a traditional working boat with a tiny back cabin to live in and a long, deep canvas-covered hold for carrying freight. In a boat like that probably there would be fewer systems to check out...On this, Cleddau’s second trip of the year, there was a radio signal to sort out (an aerial replaced eventually), a cratch canvas hook to fit, a replacement outdoor thermometer to install – and the washing machine to check out.  …..So out of Crick Marina mid-afternoon, a left turn onto the canal and a bumble along to rain drippy Crick Tunnel.  For the couple of miles after Crick Tunnel before the roar of the MI becomes intrusive there is plenty of easy towpath mooring, the only company being occasional dog walkers and the sheep in the fields opposite.     (Why do sheep always seem to present bottoms rather than faces to the camera?!)Onwards on Thursday, under the M1,    to wait a while to descend the Watford Locks. Watford Locks are beautifully kept – and while an upcoming boat was making its slow progress up the flight a lock keeper was spotted transplanting spring flowers into a wheelbarrow…The locks here are closely supervised by lock keepers. The arrangement at Watford of 1 single lock plus 4 staircase locks plus 2 single locks needs careful management of water, gates and paddles. Whether going up or down the flight the mantra for the paddles is the same: “Red     then White      and you’ll be alright.”Down at the bottom it is an hour’s cruise to Norton Junction to join the Grand Union (left turn, south, for London; right turn, to head to the Midlands, Birmingham or even Manchester). The cottage garden that overlooks the Junction is as pretty as ever     and an overnight mooring nearby in a favourite spot was secured.Onwards then the next day, destination Braunston. This was cruising Grand Union style, the canal wide enough for broad beam boats, the water deeper. Four miles on is Braunston Tunnel, one which drips water and has a notorious kink in its route. By the time Cleddau emerged from Braunston Tunnel the mizzly weather had become steady rain. There was no boat company down the Braunston broad locks; the gates are very heavy and the surfaces underfoot were slippery in the rainy conditions.  As the afternoon drew on the towpath puddles stretched and widened.A mooring above Lock 2   could have been a good place for a table at The Admiral Nelson on Saturday, except the only table available was at 8.30pm. It was welly boot weather for the intrepid, reason to stay indoors for the less brave. Driven by a “need to get out” Boatwif ventured off the boat and walked up to the village, thus adding a third sodden coat and a third pair of gloves to the selection hanging under the cratch cover on the front deck to dry…Come the next day the clouds cleared, the sun shone and the Braunston waterway was seriously busy…   Up on the High Street busy too was the Village Café. What a splendid place this was – a community café run by volunteers in what had once been a launderette in someone’s front room. “You could sign our Visitors Book,” said one of the regulars. This was a place full of conversation and chat, cake and coffee – and loads of laughter! Wonderful.If legs were well stretched between canal and village street on one day, the next day saw muscle being exercised.Down through Lock 2 and Lock 1, passage through Bottom  Lock marked on a chalk board. Along Braunston Bottom to drop off the rubbish at the bins behind the Stop House.Filled up the water tank – and turned on the washing machine.Proceeded to Braunston Turn, passing a ukelele-playing musician at the Gongoozlers Rest Narrowboat Café   and Moonfleet¹, a reminder of a favourite book in days gone by.Turned the boat around at Braunston Turn, a manoeuvre managed with a little difficulty. A sure sign of spring – a swan family with 6 young cygnets. Returned the half mile or so back to Bottom Lock. Just after midday no other boaters were looking for a partner to climb back up to the tunnel so Cleddau was ‘Billy No Mates’ again. Worked up the 6 Braunston Locks. Waterproofs and lifejackets on for the return cruise through Braunston Tunnel.  There was oncoming traffic, 9 boats heading towards Braunston… Deep concentration exercised to avoid an incident… A novelty was a good towpath mooring not far from a gap in the hedge which gives access to a new neighbourhood.  This seems to be Monksmoor on the outskirts of Daventry.  Within half an hour the next morning Cleddau was back at Norton Junction, bearing left back onto the Leicester Line. Weltonfields Marina was closed up on Bank Holiday Monday, but nb Purfick was perched on a trolley outside the workshop; how long would it be before she is back in the water…?    Onwards. In early May the towpath is a floral delight and the air filled with busy birdsong. It’s still unexpected to pass on one side the rear of Watford Gap’s Service Station and on the other the mismatched backs of houses in Watford village. Not far then to Watford Locks and a swapping of duties half way up. Though Crick Marina was within easy reach, better by far to spend another evening in a pleasant pastoral spot,  right beside the LEICESTER 38 MILES sign. An evening stroll led to a story swapping session with a single-handed lady boater. “When we fell in” became a mutual title, she, alone on a cold New Year’s Eve at Napton, her dog entangled with her, a precious DM boot lost in the process. Boatwif’s dunking (at Bidford-on-Avon, circa 1993, on a late May Bank Holiday) was witnessed by many as she swam, fully clothed, across the river to be hauled out at a boatyard… What strange coincidence was it then that, moored up back at Crick less than a day later, Boatwif lost a favourite piece of footwear to the deep…²

Bulrushes

Blossom

Ridge and furrow lines on a field 

 – then a plunge into Crick Tunnel for a dry ride until the far end when drips and waterfalls showered the boat and skipper. Past the old buildings at Crick Wharf, then a right turn into destination Crick Marina  where, when Cleddau executed a smooth and perfect arrival at her pontoon, there was no-one around to recognise the skipper’s skill…?!

Crick Marina – Braunston Turn – Crick Marina: 19¼ miles, 26 locks, 4 tunnel passages

Note to the domestically inclined – yes, the washing machine worked perfectly and the whirlygig clothes line had its first attachment to the tiller of the season.¹Moonfleet by J. Meade Falkner, an English novel of 1898, an adventure tale of smuggling,  treasure and shipwreck.² The Captain offered to buy a replacement pair of NAOT mules – but balked at the £250 price tag!*2024 Monkton Moments* (Monkton Moment*- a reference to / recognition of Cleddau’s Pembrokeshire connections) - 3

1.  I’ve had 3 caravans at Milton over the last 30 years… (Braunston Lock 3)
2. I’ve got friends in Clynderwen I used to stay with. (Braunston Lock 5)
3. Cleddau – I used to live by there – I was in Pembroke Dock last week! (Boater, waterproofed and life-jacketed approaching Braunston Tunnel)