Destination Crick

22 Sept

Written By Boatwif

Gayton Junction to Crick Marina: 17½ miles, 14 locks

When transferring from a lock-heavy stretch of narrow canal to a lock-free broad canal a boater might expect swifter travel times. But, as far as the Grand Union goes, “it ain’t necessarily so…” There are many moored up boats, some looking as if they’ve not moved in a while (!) and others that are passing through, possibly between Birmingham to the north and London in the south. The Grand Union is sometimes considered the M1 of the waterways so traffic in both directions is often heavy. As for cruising past boats that are moored up, boating protocol requires that you slow down past moored craft, reducing speed to tick over… So, once the temporary crew who had assisted passage up the Northampton Arm had left, (see here) onward Cleddau went.Yes, it was slow going, but the weather was dry and only later in the afternoon did the temperature begin to drop.You hear a lot about diversification in the countryside – here it looks as if a farm is using farmyard space for the storage of spare portaloos… An important reference point on the canals is Braunston. It’s where the Grand Union Canal meets the Oxford Canal, and its name appears on the Grand Union mileposts. About four miles short of Braunston is Norton Junction at which point the Leicester Line of the Grand Union heads eastwards to Crick, Welford, Foxton, Market Harborough and Leicester.Onward, past yellowing fields, and often within sight and sound of the West Coast Main Line railway as trains speed from Milton Keynes to Rugby and beyond…There was a night spent near Stowe Hill Boats, not far from Weedon Bec.“There’s a fisherman right on our bow,” the Captain announced the next morning. Surely this was a statement of gross exaggeration? Not quite, and a steady reverse was needed to get out of the fisherman’s space and into the centre of the channel.Onwards, passing Gertie and a fine sunflower specimen.

There was the briefest of pauses at Weedon Bec. At the bottom of the 33 steps from the canal is a large Biffa bin: near the top of the steps is a metal post, from which Boatwif collected 6 separate doggie bags to carry down to the bin. It didn’t take long to pick up a Saturday newspaper and walk back through the churchyard. Nonetheless another doggie donation had already been added to the metal post. Hear the teeth grind with irritation…On leaving Weedon Bec there was a farewell wave to Eleanor – so many times Cleddau and Eleanor had shared waters this summer! Bright red berries shimmered in the sunshine – do they augur a cold winter…? On past the new houses on the northern end of Weedon Bec: (as seen on 22nd May, now, 17th September, many of these houses are occupied).Onward along the Grand Union, trains to the left, M1 motorway to the right, a boat in front, heading now towards the Buckby Flight of 7 wide locks. Would there be a boat to share the locks with? Yes, two boaters and a dog on day 1 of a week on a borrowed boat.Windlass in hand, ready for action Boatwif enquired whether the boater ahead had a preference for one side of the chamber or the other. “Oh, the right,” came the reply, “I have a very smoky exhaust…”True, he did! But the boats climbed together, catching up with the boat ahead, a wedding guest boat, the day after a fine wedding, the boat manoeuvring slowly, the barefoot helmsman playing slow jazz on his phone… Three locks from the top a crew member from a down coming boat stood on the towpath side, recognised that the ground paddle was proving tough work for Boatwif and offered to help. Thank you. His patience was thin, however, as he insisted on winding the gate paddle too.“You could cross the gate now,” he said, “there’s a pair coming down.”Sure enough, emerging from the next lock a hundred metres along the towpath was a breasted-up pair, two boats roped together steered just by one man at one of the tillers. It was a fine sight. The Captain takes up the tale……I define a “Chuff-chuff man” as one who dresses in the style of a boatman – flat cap, bright neckerchief, usually dungarees and a large leather belt and who has an old or a new boat with an old engine. In the Midlands these “chuff-chuff men” are usually bearded. They regard themselves as the aristocrats of the cut.A Chuff-chuff man with flat cap and carefully tied neckerchief had his boats approaching from the lock above. He helped Boatwif with the heavy paddles at the top of the lock and offered to open the gate. Boatwif strode off to the next lock. I was met with the comment:“Isn’t it time you taught her to steer the boat?”. My reply: “She can handle a boat better than me and I have severe arthritis and can’t walk that far!!!!!!” My comment was followed by silence.Unaware that her boat handling skills had been praised in her absence, Boatwif continued her duties, onward, past the shop which sells ice cream and canal crafts, on up to the final lock. On a Saturday lunch time The New Inn pub beside the top lock was busy with customers, most of whom ignored the business of boats rising in the lock right beside their drinking space. One young man though helped heave the final double lock gate. Cleddau had made good time up the Buckby Flight and was further on than anticipated. There were mental calculations: 5 more miles to go after Norton Junction, 7 more locks to climb (the Watford Locks are open only between 10am and 3.15) plus one mile-long tunnel. Anticipated arrival day at Crick Marina had been Monday, the day of Queen Elizabeth II’s State Funeral when the office would be closed. Was there a chance of reaching the marina on Sunday, rather than moor up beside the towpath and wait for Tuesday…?Keep going, see how it works out was the decision.. Past the moorings at Weltonfields Narrowboats. Past Welton Hythe Marina. At 2.40pm Cleddau and the boat ahead tied up below Watford Locks, numbers 3 and 2 in a queue to go up.This flight of 7 locks (2 singles, 4 in a staircase, 1 single) can only be used with the duty lock keeper’s permission. (See here for a reminder of the downward passage in May) Boatwif scurried up the flight to book an upbound passage.The lock keeper has a job to do, water to conserve and hours to keep. There were to be no more boat movements on Saturday. Overnight two boats would be stranded at the top waiting to go down, six at the bottom waiting to go up…As the afternoon drew on more boats arrived at the bottom. “We’ve got nowhere to tie to,” said one desperate boater. “He’s (her husband) just standing there holding onto a bit of string…”“Come alongside,” urged the Captain - and a cosy night was spent breasted up to a share boat.Sunday dawned and at 9.15 up the hill again Boatwif went to book in. “I’ll come and see you,” was all the lock keeper would say as he started letting water down and moving the (now) three boats down from the top.Eventually number 1 boat was waved up two locks to pause below the staircase.Number 2 boat was waved up the bottom lock to wait before the next lock.One by one three boats emerged from the bottom lock. The lock keeper appeared. “You can start now,” he said, “it’s clear all the way up, there are other boats waiting at the top to come down so get a move on…” Onward, upward, one lock down, six to go. The gates aren’t too heavy but the red paddles were stiff.Climbing.Out of lock 6, just 1 to go.Finally, with the locks completed and the roar of the M1 receding Cleddau was again cruising past quiet fields, medieval farming practices still evident in the ridge and furrow landscape. “After the tunnel take the third entry on the right,” the telephone voice in Crick’s office had advised. And so, 211 miles since leaving Bedford and after 119 nights afloat since setting off from Victoria Pit in Cheshire in April, Cleddau arrived at her new mooring. Staff and boating neighbours were tremendously welcoming, the pontoons and grassy banks are pristine, the canal runs just behind – and the car parked near the office since mid-July thankfully started first time!