Turning left and heading downhill

From Crick Marina (Leicester Line) to beyond Calcutt (Grand Union):

16 miles, 16 locks, 2 tunnels

Getting ready for “Off” takes some effort: haircuts arranged, garden grass cut, clothes sorted for all (or nearly all) seasons, blank screen laptop taken to repair shop – and collected, time shared with friends, bin collection organised, boating paraphernalia assembled, fridge contents sorted and cool-boxed for transport…The Captain, long ago trained to plan aircraft missions to the last detail, checked the roads. The motorway was RED, so a diversion via Northampton crossed the River Nene, prompting memories of last summer’s adventures and mishaps along the river.At Crick Marina THE SHOW is the focus. On the late bank holiday weekend boat builders and associated traders congregate at Crick for a three day trade show cum Inland Waterways music festival. Cleddau was going to be in the way! The option was to leave the marina (Option A) or be moved to the far end of the basin and be squashed onto one of the long pontoons (Option B).Hard work has been going on at Crick – a couple of trees felled, the nature reserve refreshed,   new steps being cut and installed, boats being moved by life-jacketed boat movers, agricultural machinery noisily cutting the grass for the boaters’ car parks…  The boat builders’ new show boats, the heritage boats and the wide beams were moving in soon…By Saturday morning 11 of the pontoons near Cleddau were empty. With the boat ready and loaded for the summer cruise, the water tank was being given a final top-up when another boat slid in alongside.“Here for the Show?” Boatwif enquired.“Yes, assistant site manager,” was the reply.“Well, we’re off today,” Boatwif said breezily.“Yes. We know,” was the reply.So, time up. Just before 11am Cleddau pushed back from her pontoon and without fuss or ceremony left Crick, at least for the foreseeable future…Past the small basin. Past the old Crick Wharf. Into Crick Tunnel.Out of the tunnel, past sheep grazing and within a mile or so the roar of the M1 became apparent. At Watford Locks (a flight of 7, 4 of them in a staircase) the drill is to book in with the duty lock keeper and to follow instruction. The wait under the motorway bridge to join the downward convoy was not a peaceful one… True to his word the Captain worked the locks (Red paddles first, then White, just as at Foxton Locks). It was en route to Norton Junction that a motorboat and butty combo was met: how patriotically decorative was the front of the leading boat…  Were they the first of the heritage boats heading for the Crick Show? The Leicester Line from Norton Junction is a waterway used by two community boats, Guinevere and Lancelot, based at Braunston. There were plenty of crew members (and hopefully future waterway enthusiasts) aboard the two boats. It’s a very sharp turn at Norton Junction to join the Grand Union main line that heads down through Braunston and on towards Warwick and Birmingham. Round, past the pretty cottage partly hidden behind the willows, to find a glorious mooring with an open aspect over the Northamptonshire countryside.  A short walk back to the Junction and down past the top three of the Buckby Locks provided a few visual treats: the pretty porch overhang on this cottage and its gatepost gryphon;  the towpath cow parsley, the painted canal ware for sale at Anchor Cottage, a photogenic calf, though not the sunken boat above Top Lock (and how long has that been there…?) A surprise sunset glow seemed a just reward for escaping the marina    - and perhaps a promise of more to come…Early morning nb Reginald passed by. This is the newly built show boat (number 200) built by top end boatbuilders Braidbar  whose yard at Higher Poynton, was within sight of Cleddau’s former mooring. Reactions to this new boat by the Crick Boat Show crowds will be watched with interest…Onward, on Sunday, to Braunston – it’s a gentle three mile progress, first with expansive views across the Northamptonshire countryside, then in a tree-lined cutting as the canal creeps past some interestingly named boats before Braunston Tunnel.   Notes from the Captain’s log: Front tunnel light ON but no light; back up front cabin  light ON - it worked! Where was the flood light used at the back by the steerer? Found, tidied away! Half way through the tunnel and the flood light went out. So, started with 3 tunnel lights, ended with one!!!!!Cleddau emerged from Braunston Tunnel. This was it then, testing time for the crew -  would the Captain have achieved his objective and be able to work the locks…?There was activity at Braunston Top Lock (the first of six). Cleddau was well back from the gates – what was taking so long?  Ahead the Captain seemed to be enjoying the chat and eventually a single boat rose in the lock and made way for Cleddau. And singly, with no other boat to share the water or the work, Cleddau began her descent down to Braunston.  A mooring in the pound below The Admiral Nelson pub provided plenty of passing entertainment – wide beams, the community boats, hire boats – and a boater absolutely determined to turn his boat round in a canal neither wide enough nor deep enough to allow it…During a quiet late afternoon walk several curiosities were observed: a beautifully U-shaped tree trunk, (good shape for a catapult?!) a circular seat in a meadow, iconic Braunston architecture, a steamroller caravan opposite the mooring…There was a throb of an old engine early on Monday morning – a pair of old working boats, nb Raymond and nb Brighton (??) heading for the Rickmansworth Canal Festival. (See comment below from Marty re the boats' names).    Helpfully there were volunteer lock keepers on duty on the remaining two Braunston locks. Sometimes the boat needs attention and below Braunston Bottom Lock a new gas cylinder was sourced, the water tank refilled, the rubbish deposited and a sandwich lunch bought at the floating Gongoozler’s Rest. Farewell, Braunston, farewell Braunston landmarks. The Oxford Canal between Braunston Turn and Napton Junction is a gloriously rural 5 mile stretch with open views. Sunshine, tiny ducklings, nesting swans and crows soaring noisily overhead – Spring is here! There was a right turn at Napton Junction, past a line of permanent moorings, an array of wind turbines whizzing round in the brisk wind.Calcutt Locks – gulp – these locks are big beasts. The paddle gear is encased in tall white pillars, and as the paddle is wound up to release water through the sluices a thin metal pole emerges from the top of the pillar. Again no lock buddies lurked at the top of the locks, so singly again, Cleddau dropped down three more very broad (and long) locks, to moor up for the rest of the day in a quiet spot a mile or so ahead. Location? Somewhere in Warwickshire…

 

You learn about the contours of this country when you aim to access a place by boat; it’s been downhill so far from Northamptonshire and will continue to be so until after Royal Leamington Spa. Then there’s the climb up Hatton at Warwick. There’ll be a left at Kingswood Junction and a descent to river level at Stratford-upon-Avon.

 2023 mileage total: 106, locks: 40, swing bridges: 4, tunnels: 2

Conversational snippets in passing...

  • “Do you live aboard?” : FAQ now posed 4 times
  • "Cleddau - Welsh? Lancaster rose?"
  • Re the benefit of solar panels: " It's more important to have clean knickers than burnt toast..."

 

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